There are dishes, and then there are occasions. This fricassée from the Jura region is unequivocally the latter. It’s one of the most luxurious, aromatic things you will ever make. The combination of nutty, profound Vin Jaune and earthy, haunting morel mushrooms creates a sauce that is nothing short of celestial. It’s a special occasion dish, perfect for a milestone celebration. The first time I tasted it, I understood why the French treat cooking as an art form.
Quick Look
| Prep | Cook | Total | Feeds | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 45 min | 50 min | 1.5+ hours | 4-6 | A special occasion project |
Grab These
- 1 whole chicken (about 4 lbs), cut into 8 pieces, or 6 chicken thighs
- 1 oz (30g) dried morel mushrooms
- 2 cups hot chicken stock
- 4 tbsp unsalted butter, divided
- 1 large shallot, finely minced
- 1 clove garlic, minced
- 1 cup Vin Jaune (or a dry, nutty Sherry like Amontillado)
- 1 cup heavy cream (Crème Fraîche is even more authentic)
- 2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
- Salt and white pepper
Let’s Make It
Begin by rehydrating the morels. Place them in a bowl and pour the hot chicken stock over them. Let them soak for at least 30 minutes until soft. Carefully lift the morels out, reserving the precious soaking liquid. Gently squeeze any excess liquid from the mushrooms back into the bowl. Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a paper towel to remove any grit. Slice any large morels in half.
Pat the chicken pieces completely dry and season generously with salt and white pepper. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken, skin-side down first, until golden and crisp. Work in batches to avoid crowding the pan. Remove the chicken and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, the shallot, and the morels. Sauté gently for about 5 minutes until the shallot is soft and the morels are fragrant. Add the garlic and cook for another 30 seconds.
Pour in the Vin Jaune to deglaze the pan, scraping up all the browned bits. Let it reduce by half. This is where the magic starts.
Return the chicken to the pot. Pour in the strained mushroom stock and bring to a very gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 25-30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and tender.
Remove the chicken to a serving platter. Increase the heat and let the sauce reduce for a few minutes. Stir in the cream and let it simmer until the sauce is rich and coats the back of a spoon. Taste and adjust seasoning. Pour the sauce over the chicken and garnish with fresh parsley.
My Two Cents
- Calories: About 550 per serving
- Storage: Best enjoyed immediately, but will keep for 2 days in the fridge.
- Swaps:* If morels are impossible to find, a mix of other wild mushrooms like chanterelles or porcini will be lovely, though the flavor will be different.
- Pro-Tip:* The key is gentle cooking after the initial browning. You’re poaching the chicken in the aromatic liquid, not boiling it, to keep it tender.
You Asked, I’m Answering
Q: Vin Jaune is so expensive and hard to find. Is there really no substitute?
A: Its flavor is unique, but a good, dry Amontillado Sherry is the closest you can get and will still produce a magnificent dish. Do not use a sweet Sherry.
Q: How do I avoid gritty morels?
A: Soaking them and then straining the liquid through a paper-towel-lined sieve is the best defense. Some chefs even give them a very quick rinse under cold water after soaking.