This humble dish from the South of France is a masterclass in transformation. It takes the tough, salty, and unassuming salt cod and turns it into the most creamy, savory, and comforting purée imaginable. The first time I had it in a Marseille bistro, spread thickly on toast, I was hooked. It’s a dish that requires patience (you must soak the cod for a day or two) but rewards you with a flavor that is both rustic and incredibly sophisticated.
Quick Look
| Prep | Cook | Total | Feeds | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 48+ hours (soaking) | 45 min | 2+ days | 6-8 | A patient labor of love |
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Incredible depth of flavor: Salty, creamy, garlicky, and savory all at once.
- The ultimate comfort food: Warm, creamy, and perfect with crusty bread.
- A true French classic: It’s a staple throughout Provence and Languedoc.
- Makes a fantastic make-ahead appetizer: It reheats beautifully.
Grab These
- 1 lb dried salt cod
- 2 large Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 lb), peeled and quartered
- 1 cup whole milk
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- Juice of half a lemon
- A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- White pepper
- Fresh parsley, chopped, for garnish
Let’s Make It
Two days before: Place the salt cod in a large bowl and cover with cold water. Soak for 24-48 hours, changing the water 3-4 times, until the cod is pliable and only mildly salty.
Drain the cod and place it in a large pot. Cover with fresh water and bring to a gentle simmer. Poach for 10-15 minutes, until the fish flakes easily. Drain and let it cool slightly. Remove any skin and bones, then flake the fish.
While the cod is poaching, boil the potatoes until tender. Drain and mash them until smooth.
In a saucepan, warm the milk with the minced garlic.
In a large bowl or using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, combine the flaked cod and mashed potatoes. Begin mixing on low speed.
Gradually add the warm garlic milk, then slowly drizzle in ¾ cup of the olive oil, as if you were making mayonnaise. The mixture will become light, creamy, and emulsified.
Stir in the lemon juice, nutmeg, and a pinch of white pepper. Taste—it likely won’t need additional salt.
Transfer to a baking dish, drizzle with the remaining ¼ cup of olive oil, and bake at 400°F (200°C) for 20-25 minutes until golden and bubbly on top.
Nutritional Facts (Per Serving)
| Nutrient | Amount |
|---|---|
| Calories | ~ 320 kcal |
| Protein | 22g |
| Carbohydrates | 12g |
| Fat | 21g |
| *Note: | Values are estimates |
Variations & Add-Ins
- Gratinéed: Top with breadcrumbs and grated Gruyère before baking.
- With Truffle: A drizzle of truffle oil at the end is divine.
- Lighter Version: Reduce the olive oil to ½ cup and use more warm milk.
Serving Ideas
- Serve as a dip or spread with toasted baguette slices and cornichons.
- As a main course with a sharp, bitter green salad.
- With roasted cherry tomatoes on the side for a pop of acidity.
Storage & Reheating
- Storage: Will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
- Reheating: Reheat in the oven until warmed through. You may need to stir in a splash of milk to loosen it.
My Two Cents
- Pro-Tip: The key to a creamy, not gluey, brandade is the slow, gradual emulsification of the oil and milk into the fish and potato base. Don’t rush it!
You Asked, I’m Answering
Q: The salt cod is still too salty after soaking!
- A: You can do a quick “blanch.” Place the soaked cod in a pot, cover with water, bring to a boil, then drain immediately and proceed with the recipe.
Q: Can I use a food processor?
- A: You can, but be careful. Pulse briefly. Over-processing will make it gummy. A stand mixer or even a sturdy wooden spoon is better.